Sometimes people ask if they can make a DIY Packraft with multiple air chambers, either to conform with local regulations or because they are worried about sinking.
The best way to create multiple air chambers in a packraft is to install an airtight zipper in the tube and then place inflated drybags inside (I’m told this is an approved method for paddling in the Grand Canyon and other parks where multiple air chambers are required by law). One customer has tested this method by opening the deflation valve while paddling, and he was able to continue paddling even after the tubes completely deflated, kept afloat by the internal drybags. If you think about it, this method is actually better than having two air chambers built into the packraft’s tubes – imagine trying to sit in a packraft with only one end inflated, or only one side… it wouldn’t work very well.
Installing bulkheads inside the packraft’s tubes to create permanently separated air chambers is an advanced project, not recommended for first-time packraft builders, and DIY Packraft does not offer kits, instructions, or patterns to help you do this. Except for some outdated and lesser-known packraft models, commercial packraft manufacturers do not offer this feature either, probably because it adds unnecessary complexity, weight, and bulk to a packraft.
For emergency flotation, an inflatable seat (which DIY Packrafts do include) can be considered a separate air chamber, and even a backpack full of gear will float as long as it is lined with a plastic bag or drybag. This means that the risk of actually sinking is very low. You could also place an inflatable camping mattress on the packraft’s floor under your seat, and you will of course always wear a PFD (life jacket) and dress appropriately for the water temperature whenever you paddle, so even if you become separated from the packraft you will be able to swim to shore.
Catastrophic failures (large, fast leaks) are usually caused by high speed contact with a sharp object (such as a tree in a whitewater river). This kind of fast deflation is highly unlikely to happen far from shore unless you overload* your packraft or it is poorly constructed (so be sure to follow the instructions carefully).
Far from shore, a slow leak is much more likely than a catastrophic failure, and a slow leak does not pose a real safety risk – if you feel your packraft getting soft, you can simply increase the air pressure by blowing air in through the one-way part of the inflation valve, or you can paddle to shore. Even if you are half a mile (800 m) from land, it only takes 10-15 minutes to reach shore, and I’ve personally paddled for more than an hour in a packraft that had a slow leak.
Compared to a heavy whitewater raft, packrafts are very lightweight and should be treated with more care. Don’t just inflate it, throw your gear in, and hit the water – avoid packing sharp or abrasive objects against the packraft’s tubes (duh), and attach your gear securely so it won’t rub excessively against the fabric. You should also monitor the air pressure in the tubes to avoid over-pressurizing the packraft as your load increases or the air temperature changes throughout the day; if the tubes feel harder than the amount of pressure you can create using your lungs alone, it’s time to release some air.
*To test the strength and buoyancy of a DIY Packraft, I floated three adults in the smallest Skeena model and it did not fail, but I do not recommend overloading a packraft like that because it could fail catastrophically (i.e. “pop”) – check out my post about packraft capacity ratings here.
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