“Self bailing” packrafts have holes around the perimeter of the cockpit floor so water that splashes in simply drains out by gravity. An inflatable insert similar to a camping mattress is placed inside the cockpit to raise the paddler above the waterline.
All the standard weight single-person DIY Packraft models (not the Ultralight) can be made self bailing by cutting drain holes in the floor and adding an inflatable floor insert. Some DIY Packraft models include an inflatable floor insert in the packraft kit (e.g. the Chilko), while in other models the floor insert is an optional accessory.
8 Comments
Amfern · May 10, 2025 at 8:34 pm
Not sure if there is a way to add photos but I made a self bailing floor. For my telkwa. Started with just 4 plugs around the back so I can seal it on flatwater and not sit in a puddle. I think I’m going to add 6 more along the sides toward the middle/ front and it should be dialed. Pretty happy with the set up – just need to extend my inflatable floor and I’ll think I will be in business.
For the floor I’m planning to still use the floor that came with the kit and create a second pad and bond the two together with sealer, essentially making it a 2 chambered floor.
Hope this helps anyone thinking about making a self bailer. There isn’t much info out there on it!
Zach Schiada · March 6, 2024 at 2:56 am
I’ve ordered a telkwa kit and am considering making it self bailing since sitting in a puddle doesn’t bother me much. Is there a way to install the floor of the packraft so that it cinches a bit higher on the inside, making it above where the tube bottoms are? I doubt this would put the floor above the waterline when sitting in the packraft, but maybe would help drain a bit better.
Matt (Admin) · March 6, 2024 at 9:05 am
Hi Zach, thanks for your order! It’s a good thought, but I can’t think of a way to do what you’re proposing without completely redesigning the packraft.
Zach Schiada · March 6, 2024 at 10:00 am
Thanks Matt. I’ll probably just go without holes to start and see if I need them then. I was going to test out another inflatable kayak that I have that isn’t self bailing, but I figure I’ll just wait and see if it’s even necessary in the first place since I’m mostly running class 1-2 with just the occasional 3.
Matt (Admin) · March 7, 2024 at 2:18 pm
That seems like a good plan. Cheers!
Cam · August 30, 2022 at 8:24 pm
I have recently converted my diy packraft to self-bailing with an inflatable floor insert as suggested here. A tip for anyone else doing it is to inform install straps to hold down the floor. Without straps the floor floated there was a lot of water in the raft making if very slow. With straps in stalled the floor displaces most of the water and the raft performs well again.
krstahl · January 24, 2019 at 7:18 pm
I’m looking at making an inflatable floor per option #1 above so I can convert my raft to a self-bailer. How many holes, and how large of holes do you suggest to put in the floor for decent self-bailing? I do not intend on using my raft in anything other than flat water and possible Class 1 rapid. Mostly, I just want to prevent having water slosh around in the bottom of the boat and eventually having to stop and turn the raft over to drain it. I currently own an IK that has “plugs” in the floor than can be opened or closed depending on rapids vs. lake so I was thinking of installing the pressure fit valves. btw, how thick are the pressure fit valves?.
Matt (Admin) · January 25, 2019 at 9:00 am
For occasional splashes in up to Class 1 water, I think two drains (one on each side of your seat) would be more than enough drainage. The valves are about half an inch thick. Note, however, that because the packraft’s floor is below waterline, with the valves open water only drains until it reaches equilibrium with the water outside the boat, so there will always be some water on the floor. For this reason, self-bailing is more useful for whitewater paddlers who get swamped regularly. Some paddlers prefer the way a self-bailing packraft handles though, because the extra water mass on the floor gives it more inertia. If you’re not sure if self-bailing is right for you, you can always wait and add it later, if necessary.
For smaller amounts of water on the floor, I find that a sponge works well as a bailer.