Home Forums DIY Packrafts Hot air heat sealing

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  • #14064
    AK TnG
    Participant

    Has anyone pursued this any further? I tried my regular heat gun on some scrap and I was super impressed in the speed and ease of sticking it together. There are several options for heat guns to. Digitally controlled, gun type, hot air rework station for circuit cards, tarp welding hot air devices etc…

     

    I’m thinking you might need two of them, a rework station for tight corners, curves, and one of the roof or tarp repair types for bigger seams.

     

    -TnG

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    • #14424
      AK TnG
      Participant

      Thanks for the info. Been caught up with other stuff lately, but I’m going to give it a try.

    • #14423
      craig1185
      Participant

      I’m experimenting with a Ryobi heat gun with tips purchased from Amazon. So far I’m getting more consistent results then with the iron I’m using. This is my first packraft and I have zero experience.

    • #14118
      Christian001
      Participant

      I used a cheap hot air soldering station for three packrafts (Telkwa, 2P and UL). I think you will find it with different names, but it’s always something with “858D”. I bought this: https://www.amazon.de/Digital-Desoldering-Reparatur-Werkzeug-Elektrowerkzeuge/dp/B074N1FR9N

      I dialed it to 270 °C and intensity of 3.5 for the normal Telkwa/Skeena-Fabric, and to 300 °C and 1.0 for the UL fabric. That worked like a charm. The seams are very consistent and clean and, if you are careful, without any air bubbles.

      I used it for all of the seams and for difficult corners. For other parts (like soldering the main pieces to the floor) I used the leather iron. In those areas, the iron is a little bit faster.

      If you have more questions, don’t hesitate to ask.

      Christian

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