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hi

just ordered the v3 kit and irons

Living in Calgary, Canada but originally from Australia.

I’m really looking forward to building this.

Great site Matt, I can finally get into packrafting!

cheers

Sean

I merged this topic into the Help & Questions topic, but it messed with the order of posts… I’m trying to fix it, so far with no success 🙁

Hi Perrin,

Don’t worry – the zippers are very tight to begin with, but will loosen up over time. They’re especially difficult to open before they are mounted, because you have very little to grab on to. If you want to try them out before they are installed in the packraft, you can clamp one end of the mounting fabric in a padded vice or vice…[Read more]

Ah, yeah, I should have asked where the temperature sensor was, as there’s always a temperature gradient between the heating element and the surface of an iron. In theory, you could calibrate it to display the surface temperature, but it wouldn’t really be worth your time – once you find the correct temperature by trial and error, you can just…[Read more]

Question about zippers:

I just received my kits – all very exciting, like a kid on Christmas ‘n all that – but the zippers are proving a bit of a challenge. All five appear stuck and despite a fair amount of traction, to the point of where I’m afraid I’ll do damage, I can’t get any of them to budge.

They all look to be in good condition and have…[Read more]

Howdy

In answering my question..

I measured the temperature on the surface of the copper and found it was about 30 degrees C cooler than the reading from the other sensor.

So that bit of insulation is making a huge difference. In 3d printer land the sensors are often held on using silicone gasket sealant rated to 340 degrees. I think I will probably…[Read more]

<p style=”text-align: right;”>https://vimeo.com/241967462</p>
Video test .

Sold!

I’ve built a couple of 3D printers and throughout that process I’ve always bought a few spares for when things go up in smoke.

I had a spare control board and heater cartridges. So it was an easy job to mount the heater cartridge inside a piece of copper, along with a thermisistor and heat sink compound.

So I’ve managed to get a PID controlled…[Read more]

I dialled the temp up to 235c last night and overall it seemed to work a bit better for the 1000D.

My temperature sensor 5+ cm’s back from the sealing area and it is held in place with some heat resistant cotton wrapped around the copper tube. So I’m thinking as its basically an insulator that its probably reading much higher than at the actual…[Read more]

Hi I’m Filippo , Monoferrara ,from Italy  i’m like ride in gravel bike and unicycle ,my next proget is a trip in unipackraft .I’m like outdoor ,survivor and build whit my hand.

My soldering iron homemade.

philips 25w

test heat sealing ripstop 40D and  nylon 201D.

Oh, and the fabric melts at around 240 C, but you shouldn’t need to get anywhere close to that hot. Your DIY iron sounds cool! If you’re finding it takes too long to seal the wider welds, it might be worth adding an inexpensive model airplane sealing iron to your quiver – the large foot makes quick work of the tube-to-floor welds.

Hi Aaron – is that 215 degrees C or F? Assuming it’s Celsius, that should be plenty hot – maybe too hot, by the sounds of it. Maybe try around 200 C. You should be able to heat a small area, remove the iron, press on it with a rag for a few seconds to allow the weld to set, and then it should stay like that. You may see an occasional small bubble,…[Read more]