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Thanks Matt, thought there was probably a reason. Think I’ll push the button on a standard Skeena soon and stick to using the Klymit LWD for now when I need a lighter weight option/only need to be able to cross rivers.

It’s not possible because the design uses floor fabric that is coated with TPU on both sides and the 250 GSM fabric is coated on only one side.

Great – thanks!

That’s all good with me! I hope it helps

Thanks!

Hey Matt,

I would love to see a video or just pictures of how you attach your seat. I just finished up the new 2 piece seat and I’m having a hard time visualizing how to attach both parts to one point in the back. I saw in the directions that you’ve used webbing and buckles and was looking to go in that direction.

Thanks!

This is great – thanks! If it’s okay with you, I’ll copy these pictures to the instructions page and give you a shoutout there so more people will see it.

The freezer might work – I haven’t actually tried it, but Gear Aid does recommend storing opened tubes in the freezer.

I usually toss the screw-on brush after the first use, and then I re-use the metal-handled brush even if it’s totally hardened, but in that case I use it more like a spatula. Sometimes I just use my finger to spread the sealant…[Read more]

I made a couple forms that are basically the point on your form pattern isolated into a little handheld piece. This ended up working really well for me and I managed to get the whole bow sealed without any wrinkles to speak of. Thanks for the encouragement and feedback!

Dimensions are in inches, but they’re just estimates, I took a block of wood…[Read more]

Ah, clearly reading isn’t my strong suit, but yes. I didn’t want to change the shape of the bow, and while the nose of the form was about the right shape,  I just couldn’t get the fabric on there in a way that it didn’t want to wrinkle where the seam tape was already attached to the tube material.

I’m certain the way you describe works, I think…[Read more]

I meant, did you read the section below the video with the heading “Ironing around the pointy bow”?

Matt, I watched that video over and over. I tried every bowl I had in my house and a couple I picked up from the thrift store. I’ve been really impressed with your instructions (honestly, this one too, I think this is more of a “me” problem), this time I just couldn’t get it right. I’m going to make some smaller forms and play around on some…[Read more]

Just to make sure, did you see the “Ironing around the pointy bow” section on the instructions page?

It’s okay to have a few small wrinkles towards the edges of the seam strip there, so don’t stress about it.

I know your pain! LOL I built a Telkwa and the nose and stern are equally difficult. I ended up with 8 different wooden forms and used a 3 inch diameter hard rubber ball with tape with the sticky side out to do the nose and worked well.  It takes time and I ended up with a tiny wrinkle but was able to iron it out to almost nothing. So don’t gi…[Read more]