Self-Bailing Floor?

Note: Unless you are already familiar with self-bailing packrafts and you understand the sacrifices involved (e.g. always sitting in a puddle of water), do not purchase or make a self-bailing packraft. Self-bailing boats have holes in the bottom, so there is always some water in the boat even when you’re not paddling in whitewater. I have had one person ask me to help them plug the holes in the bottom of their brand-name self-bailer because they found it too cold and wet, and I have heard similar complaints and regrets from others who have purchased self-bailing packrafts. I would only recommend a self-bailing packraft to someone who lives in a warm climate and plans to paddle whitewater, or to someone who will always be wearing a wetsuit or drysuit when paddling. – Matt

Several people have asked if I have plans for how to add a self-bailing floor to their DIY Packraft kit or to an existing packraft. That’s definitely on my list of things to do, but because I don’t enjoy sitting in puddles of water, it’s not my top priority and I do not have a target date for when it will be available in the DIY Packraft shop. In the meantime, here are some guidelines for making one yourself:

Some time ago I wrote about adding an integrated inflatable floor for the V2 DIY Packraft, which could be made self-bailing by adding drain ports. This works fine, but it adds a fair amount of time and difficulty to the packraft build, and it tends to make a lot of wrinkles in the packraft’s tubes if it’s over-inflated. Also, if it was ever punctured, it would be difficult to repair.

My current recommendation is to make a separate inflatable floor insert (much like a camping mattress) to fit inside the packraft, and then add drain holes in the existing floor to make it self-bailing. In fact, you can purchase a cheap camping mattress and modify it to fit in the packraft’s cockpit. (Inflatable camping mattresses are constructed with welded seams in a similar fashion to the DIY Packrafts, and can be cut apart and heat sealed back together.)

For floor drains, you can either cut holes in the floor and leave it like that (that’s how the packraft manufacturers do it – look at pictures on their websites), or if you want the ability to close the drains then the red two-way push valves in the DIY Packraft shop would work well. Make at least two drains in the floor, near the lowest point in the cockpit, which is under your butt. Place them towards the sides of the cockpit so they won’t be blocked by the inflatable insert. Two drains would be enough to drain spray and the occasional wave, but if you’re expecting to take on wave after wave, you’ll want more drains for faster outflow. Add at least two valves, one on either side of the cockpit near its widest point. Ben K. added four valves to his packraft, and he reports that they provide enough drainage for class I-II whitewater, but you’ll want even more drains if you’re tackling class III or higher.

If you’re making your own inflatable insert from bulk fabric, use a Boston valve as the inflation valve; even though it’s a bit bulkier and heavier than the alternatives, the volume of the inflatable floor insert will be fairly large and it would take a long time to inflate by mouth, so having the ability to use your inflation bag will definitely make your life easier.

When designing the shape of the insert, make sure it won’t cover the floor drains or water won’t flow out through them.