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Terry,

You have a great kit awaiting, I will offer a few thoughts regarding your iron.

From the pictures it looks just like the leather irons I have. Mine just plug in and work. Eventually. It does take 20 minutes for them to reach temperature on 120v power. And they will go well beyond 220 degrees C.

Yes, I painted the sides flat black to use…[Read more]

I wanted to remove any variability in my thermo stand and actual temperatures. So, I painted the iron’s surface flat black and used my infrared toy. Spot checks revealed a variety of temperatures with the hottest about 1 cm away from where the wires enter the body.

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With this technique, maximum temperatures reached were 157C. Yeah, waiting for…[Read more]

Hello,

My first post here. I just received my Telkwa kit and am acquiring the tools needed to start assembly. I purchased the Jingda iron and am waiting for a roller to arrive. In the meantime, I tested the iron for temperature with a stand I made up from aluminum bar stock and other workshop scraps. I riveted 2 pieces together and drilled a hole…[Read more]

Thanks Matt, thought there was probably a reason. Think I’ll push the button on a standard Skeena soon and stick to using the Klymit LWD for now when I need a lighter weight option/only need to be able to cross rivers.

It’s not possible because the design uses floor fabric that is coated with TPU on both sides and the 250 GSM fabric is coated on only one side.

Great – thanks!

That’s all good with me! I hope it helps

Thanks!

Hey Matt,

I would love to see a video or just pictures of how you attach your seat. I just finished up the new 2 piece seat and I’m having a hard time visualizing how to attach both parts to one point in the back. I saw in the directions that you’ve used webbing and buckles and was looking to go in that direction.

Thanks!

This is great – thanks! If it’s okay with you, I’ll copy these pictures to the instructions page and give you a shoutout there so more people will see it.

The freezer might work – I haven’t actually tried it, but Gear Aid does recommend storing opened tubes in the freezer.

I usually toss the screw-on brush after the first use, and then I re-use the metal-handled brush even if it’s totally hardened, but in that case I use it more like a spatula. Sometimes I just use my finger to spread the sealant…[Read more]

I made a couple forms that are basically the point on your form pattern isolated into a little handheld piece. This ended up working really well for me and I managed to get the whole bow sealed without any wrinkles to speak of. Thanks for the encouragement and feedback!

Dimensions are in inches, but they’re just estimates, I took a block of wood…[Read more]

Ah, clearly reading isn’t my strong suit, but yes. I didn’t want to change the shape of the bow, and while the nose of the form was about the right shape,  I just couldn’t get the fabric on there in a way that it didn’t want to wrinkle where the seam tape was already attached to the tube material.

I’m certain the way you describe works, I think…[Read more]

I meant, did you read the section below the video with the heading “Ironing around the pointy bow”?