Approximate time required: 2.5 hours.
Note: this page is for the optional inflatable floor inserts available for the Atlin, Skeena, and Telkwa packraft models. Instructions for the Chilko inflatable floors are posted here.
Questions? Leave a comment below.
3 Comments
Pablo · September 25, 2026 at 7:51 pm
Thank you. That makes sense. And In think it is a good idea to build it as it is first, as you suggest. I can always do another weld closing the corner and trim the excess.
Pablo · September 25, 2026 at 3:15 pm
I am considering rounding the 4 corners away from the centerline to allow for water flow (self bailing). Do you think it may create other problems? I guess I should shorten the baffles so the distance to the edge is the same as in the original design.
Thanks.
Matt (Admin) · September 25, 2026 at 4:15 pm
I think that’s not a bad idea. You don’t need very big gaps to move water out at a decent rate, so you might not need to shorten the baffles. Instead of rounding the corners before assembling it, I might wait until after you’ve constructed it the normal way, then you can bring the corners in while you’re welding the perimeter. You could shorten the side baffles a bit if you’re sure you’re going to do it, but if you do, make sure the perimeter seam is close enough to the ends of the baffles that the floor isn’t ballooning outward thicker than the height of the baffles there. It’s kind of difficult to explain this without pictures, but it can cause leaks to form because if the perimeter seam isn’t relieving the tension on the end of the baffle, it concentrates force there, which can cause the TPU to delaminate and leak. To prevent that from happening, try to make sure the ends of your baffles are the same distance away from the perimeter seam as I’ve made them (or less). Hopefully that makes sense!