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Got this in the mail today. Seems to be working just perfect. Test sealed 40D fabric and started with 150 C or aprox. 300 F, perfect! Now waiting for the diy-kit from Matt.

Re the leather iron from Aliexpress mentioned in Comments.

I’ve just used mine in earnest (though not on a boat, alas) and have to change my opinion. The shoe is a solid lump of alloy, yet after a few hours it bubbled! See the photo. It looked like a chrome plating with bubbles, but after taking it all apart it is actually solid. The bottom of…[Read more]

I also recommend putting a piece of teflon, parchment paper, or tape between the wire and the red guard. It helps ensure the wire doesn’t melt through the guard. Here is a picture of a teflon guard over the top screw. Yes, if it gets too close the masking tape scorches.

It is easy to adjust the temperature on a Top Flight model aircraft heat sealing iron. I suspect the other brand irons can be adjusted too, if needed.

When I got mine, it heated to about 198 degrees C (according to my innexpensive infrared thermometer – an oven meat thermometer works just as well). It was not hot hot enough to seal TPU fabric, a…[Read more]

I recommend everyone reinforce their Clover Iron before first use! I loved Chris Christy’s solution, above, but couldn’t find a 1/2″x 13 “Tee” nut. I bought some aluminum round stock to toss onto the lathe to make a supply for our classes, but after thinking about how much work was involved, I “discovered” 4 inches of thin steel wire proved to be…[Read more]

I just got this cool shot from Jeremy and Melissa in Alaska showing their first two DIY Packrafts on their maiden voyage!

Yes, that could work for the V2 plans if you extend the tube pieces slightly (so the ends overlap enough to bond them together).

Would not say that the textile was the easiest fabric to work with, but doable. I recommend other fabric supplier if you have another choice of supplier. Have not tested Matt’s fabric so cant say much about it more than what others have written/said.

Hi guys, living in the northen part of Norway. Placed order with Matt couple of days ago and waiting to start with the packraft in near future. Stefan..did you got the fabric from textilextreme, how was it to bond??

I was thinking of bonding all tubes together on left or right side first, before bonding anything to the floor. In that way I could let the bau or the stern be left open for bonding as last thing to do, and then starting to bond both tube side on left or right to the floor, working one side complete finished before bonding the other side, ending…[Read more]

I’ve been using lightweight drybags like you’re thinking of using, though I haven’t bothered adding tiedowns or clips for them, as I don’t paddle any crazy whitewater (yet…). Cheers!

I have disabled direct messaging between forum members due to a spam issue, so please contact me for Chris’ contact info. Thanks!

Hi Bill,

Yep, the ultralight packraft is… ultralight! 😀

The 40D fabric seals at the same temperature as the heavier fabrics, so if you do find a trim sealing iron that is hot enough to seal it, please let us know – so far, I haven’t had any luck.

Cheers!

Matt

I’m sorry, I’m not sure what you mean. Can you maybe draw a picture to help explain?

Hi
I have some questions about making the packraft.

1. Will there be an idea to bond all the tubes together first and then let the front or back of the tubes be open?
2. If you work this way, you can start to bond the tubes side by side against the open tube and bonding be more easy ond possible more airtight??

Yes have seen one yesterday due to demo of my working collegue. There is NO inner valve, the fabric is just stove inside the opening, then closure is with the fabric outside as rolled up and clips`d togehter.

Is this still for sale?