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The pump is definitely not strong enough, and this makes it go faster I think – so both. Feel free to make a new forum post with the link!

Emails went to my spam folder :facepalm:

@UncleFred, I did print out a prototype and test it – it fits perfectly into the pump and is a tight fit on the valve as well. I messed up on the pins by heating the whole adapter at once  with a hair dryer, which caused a couple of the holes to close up. This messed up the insertion of the rest of the pins. See photos.

I fixed the design to…[Read more]

Krafter, have you made any of these adapters and tested them? I want this!

To answer Matt’s question: For my version which is the max pump, no. The pump is not powerful enough to push air through the check valve.

An attachment like this would be a huge godsend. Krafter, If you’ve printed out any of these, I’d happily pay for one as I don’t have…[Read more]

What a cool idea! Thanks for sharing. This might deserve to be a whole forum topic on its own.

It’s an interesting idea to use prongs to hold the check valve open – is the pump not strong enough to pump air through the valve, or does it just work faster that way?

Thanks Matt. I’ll keep an eye on it and report back.

In my tests, the D-rings themselves break at about 45 kg or 99 pounds load (on average), and the attachment point itself should be stronger than that, but over time things could wear. If I were you, I’d probably use it as-is but keep an eye on it and if it looks like distributing the load over one or two more points would help, then it looks like…[Read more]

My first useful contribution here: I designed a 3d-printed adapter for the Flextail tiny pump 2x to the boston valve that can open up the check valve part and let air flow through freely. Print it with the narrow part down and the wide part up (upside down). If the flextail pumps have the same diameter output (which I suspect is true) it should…[Read more]

I tried today with the seam grip having set about 18 hours. It worked fine. I even tried directly on the seam grip without the parchment paper and it didn’t look too bad after, but I’d recommend with parchment paper over without since I just tried one small area and suspect there’d be some melting if I were to do it elsewhere. Definitely my prefe…[Read more]

I’ve never tried it, but I don’t think it would be a problem… I would try it in an inconspicuous area and see how it looks, and if it doesn’t melt or do weird things, carry on.

So I got a little carried away with seam sealer and started coating all of my seams with seam grip before fixing what should have been done with my iron when I inflated and found leaks. I read on here that I can go over sealed areas with my iron using parchment paper once it cures, but is that after the 8 days to fully cure or can I do so say 8-12…[Read more]

Thanks for the report, Zach. It sounds like it would be good to have one of those as a secondary iron for little finicky things and hard to reach places. I might pick one up. Cheers

I used this one and it has been great for small sections and I suspect it’s easier for things like the attachments, but after having completed the bulk of my telkwa (still diagnosing and fixing some leaks), I wouldn’t recommend it. The obvious reason is like you mentioned that it takes longer, but also, I found myself rewelding sections more tha…[Read more]

Hi Mateo, don’t worry – it’s not hard to fix! If you look ahead to the Front Center Seam step and scroll down near the bottom of the page, there are instructions in case you run into a similar situation: https://www.diypackraft.com/construction/how-to/instructions-telkwa-kits/telkwa-assembly-front-center-seam/

Cheers!