Forum Replies Created
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I don’t normally include the back band parts with the ultralight seat kits, but I can if you want. I think it would work fine, but I haven’t tried it, so I’m not 100% sure. Just send me an email if you’re thinking about ordering one and you want those parts.
Most of the weight savings in the ultralight seat kit comes from the seat bottom, which is separate from the backrest/back band.
(I’m assuming you’re talking about adding the ultralight seat and back band to a standard weight packraft – I would caution anyone against adding a back band to an Ultralight packraft kit.)
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Yes and no… You can layer fabrics together to make something stronger, but you can’t iron directly onto TPU without making a mess, so at least one of the fabrics has to be coated on only one side. The woven fabric is less resistant to abrasion than the TPU (and soaks up water and dirt, etc.), so depending on the application, that may or may not be acceptable. Laminated fabrics will be stiffer, too.
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Hi troc, thanks for the feedback – I will try to make that more obvious.
I think it will be easier if you simply trim off the red fabric and make a sandwich like you described. Remember you will need to extend the strip past the edges of the bag so you can attach the buckle. If you’ve trimmed the end flush with the edge of the bag, you can splice on an extension.
Happy new year!
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Hi Sam,
Other than the Ultralight, any model will handle a 50 lb dog without popping. For alpine lakes, I would probably choose an Atlin (the largest size), because it’s wider in the foot area so there’s more room to share between the two of you. If you were going to be paddling with the pup for hours at a time, I’d consider a Skeena XL for even more room, but on alpine lakes I doubt that would be necessary, and the extra bulk and weight might not be worthwhile.
Cheers,
Matt
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As far as I can see, neither of those looks bad enough to risk removal and rewelding. I would just coat them with Aquaseal and not worry about it, because everything else looks great. For the sealant on the inside, I would proceed as normal, just making sure to plug any obvious routes where air could escape. Cheers!
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Hi Anders – don’t worry! It’s not necessary to go back and change anything – just carry on. Those inside reinforcements are only for extra strength (the Skeena and other packraft models don’t have them, and that has never caused a problem). If you are really concerned, you could add a wider reinforcing strip that bridges across the sealant, but again, it is not necessary.
Cheers 🙂
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Hmm, the picture doesn’t really show the whole piece, but from what I can see, it looks like it could work. If you want a new black rectangle then I can make one for free – you’ll just need to pay the shipping cost. Send me an email with your current address if that’s what you’d like to do, or carry on with the red. Cheers
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When I was designing my first packrafts I used a roll of clear plastic vapor barrier from the hardware store (used for house construction) and the tape they sell for sealing it. My prototypes weren’t completely airtight, but close enough to judge whether or not they were the right shapes when inflated.
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