Forum Replies Created
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It sounds like your storage method is a good one! Your question inspired me to make a video showing how I fold and roll packrafts, and I’ve posted it here: https://www.diypackraft.com/construction/how-to/pack-carry-and-store-a-packraft/
Cheers!
Hi Aaron – your welds look good, and it sounds like they are holding just fine. I usually see some variation in the transparency of the welds (especially in the yellow and red fabrics), so that’s nothing to worry about. Do try to use the roller to squeeze out the air bubbles, but they look fine.
I’m going to answer the other part of your question on the instructions page, because more people will see it there. Cheers!
Excellent question, and I’m surprised it hasn’t come up before! You’ve prompted me to make a dedicated page about this topic (so it won’t get buried here in the forum over time). It’s a work in progress, but it’s posted here: https://www.diypackraft.com/faq/packrafting-paddles/
Usually leaks are caused by debris in the zipper: https://www.diypackraft.com/faq/why-is-my-airtight-zipper-leaking/
Hi Aaron – sorry I didn’t see this until now. There’s a bug in the forum software that was holding posts with multiple pictures in a hidden section, waiting for moderation, but it wasn’t notifying me about them. Hopefully I’ve fixed it now… we shall see. Don’t be afraid to email me if you don’t get a response within a day or so.
Anyway, your welds look pretty good to me. Ideally there would be equal amounts stuck to each of the 250 GSM fabrics, but what I see isn’t so bad – clearly the TPU layers are welding together. Try heating it for a shorter amount of time and that might help, but even if it doesn’t change, you’re certainly getting solid welds.
For the tube-to-floor welds with the 450 GSM fabric, this unequal peeling is to be expected (see my response to Jason below). The 450 GSM fabric is new and I hadn’t posted about this in the heat sealing technique page until recently, so you probably didn’t see it. Thanks for asking.
Very interesting! Until now, the low melting temperature of DCF has been a problem for heat sealing, but it looks like they have formulated a type of TPU that is weldable at a lower temperature – very cool. Unfortunately the price will be prohibitive for many people, but if someone manages to get a sample of several meters and wants to try making a packraft out of it, contact me and I will be happy to help! I am very curious to see how it performs.
Very creative tip – thanks for posting! I can see this being especially useful for spots where I accidentally damage the TPU on the tube fabric. Cheers!
Interesting! I got some samples of TPU sheets too, but I haven’t had time to experiment with them yet. In a way, it’s a “solution in search of a problem,” but when we find that problem it will be an elegant fix. A higher melting temperature will make it difficult to use though.
Yeah, I apply the Seam Grip to the TPU side (shiny outside) of the fabric in spots like that if they’re somewhere that will be noticeable on the inflated packraft. If it’s somewhere hidden, like near where the tube meets the floor on the inside of the packraft, I apply it to the inside of the tube. Cheers!
Hi Jason – excellent question! Your heat sealing looks great. The bond strength between the TPU layer and the woven fabric is slightly less in the 450 GSM fabric than the 250 GSM fabric, so this is to be expected. (In the packrafts, the tube-to-floor joints are designed to minimize peeling forces, so don’t worry about this.) I will add a note to the heat sealing technique page about this.
Thanks for the detailed comments! I’m working on ways to make the cut lines better in the Ultralight fabrics… it’s pretty difficult on those thin fabrics. Thanks for the tip about placing the darker fabric under the tube fabric – I’ll add that to the instructions.
I’ll add a note to the pressure fit valve product page indicating that if people are planning to install them in a packraft they should choose “Pair + Inflation Bag Valve” from the drop-down menu. Looking back at your order, I see you had asked me to swap them in for the Boston valve in the kit, which is cool too. When I was packing it up I didn’t think about the inflation bag – I follow a checklist so I don’t have to use my brain, which works well except when it doesn’t… If you ever decide to place another order, remind me and I’ll add that extra valve for free.
Cheers!
I know a number of people have added zippers to both of those brands and it should work the same way. Cheers!
@rookienewbie Yes, it should work exactly the same. Cheers!
Thanks for posting this, Harald. I will add a link to this post in the Germany section of the Will I Have to Pay Taxes or Import Duties page so more people will see it. Cheers!
I hesitate to recommend a DIY Packraft for unknown whitewater conditions… so much depends on the conditions and the paddlers’ skill. I assume the race organizers wouldn’t send you into unsafe conditions though, so it’s probably not a bad option. It would be a lot of work to make something you’re not passionate about though, so it might make more sense to purchase one of the packrafts you mentioned and then sell it after the race. I think it would retain most of its value if you treat it well.
I have tried many adhesives and do not recommend any of them, but two that other people have recommended (I have not used them because they’re not available where I live) are HH-66 and Stabond. They will stick to the fabric, but I don’t know if they’ll stick to a magnet. You may have better luck heat sealing a piece of fabric over the magnet to hold it in place.
Cheers!
In your situation I would rent packrafts for the event – much less stress and more time for training.
