Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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Welcome to the forum, Jeb!
I’ve been working on a two-person packraft design for a while now, but I’d like to avoid the floppy side-tube syndrome that people complain about in the manufactured two-person packrafts. How much of an issue was this for you, @lynsg? I know you found the length an issue for comfort as well (it not really being long enough for two people to stretch out). Should I go ahead and release a typical two-person model with the inherent flaws, or should I wait until I can improve on the industry-standard design?
Haha yeah – nothing is actually copied and pasted, but so far it doesn’t look like this Nick Kowalski character has anything new to offer, aside from his location.
As far as I can tell he hasn’t even built a packraft yet, which makes his “Iron Raft” venture quite a bold move… unless he’s selling someone else’s proven design.
They say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery… check out this copycat DIY Packraft shop – they even call their product a DIY Packraft Kit 😀
The seam fabric will not form a strong bond with the non-TPU side of the floor fabric, so I recommend heating the area with your iron again so you can pull it apart there.
Hi @hiroshi, that is a common mistake – if you heat the fabric with your iron again, I think you will be able to separate the fabric.
Great – I’m glad the package arrived in Japan without a long delay.
I have now enabled the ability to upload images in forum posts (click the mountain icon above the text box when typing a forum topic or reply).
Thanks
Sorry, there’s not much I can do about the parcel postage rates, and I don’t think it could be sent in a letter. I guess another option would be to buy a beach ball and cut the valve out… I’m not sure how good of a valve you could get that way, but it might be worth a try. I couldn’t find similar valves for sale anywhere, which is why I decided to stock them myself.
Alternatively, if you order two valves and some fabric for a seat, it might make the shipping costs more palatable 🙂
Welcome to the forum, @maynard!
I recommend both, each for different applications.
Aquaseal is best for installing valves, making permanent repairs, and gluing fabric together in places that can’t be heat-sealed. (Aquaseal cures with exposure to air, so when gluing two things together, apply Aquaseal to both surfaces and let them sit for at least 30 minutes before pressing them together, otherwise it will take a very long time to cure fully.)
Seam Grip is thinner and can be applied with the included brushes along the inside of seams so that even if your heat seals aren’t perfectly airtight, your tubes will not leak air. (Aquaseal can be used for the same purpose, but it won’t cover as much area.) Seam Grip can also be used to patch very small holes.
Hi Hiroshi, thanks for your order! It should take approximately ten business days to arrive. You will be the first in Japan 🙂
My Clover Mini Iron II is made for North America’s 120 V, 60 Hz power supply. Clover has a Japanese website, where you may be able to find more information, or at least contact information for someone who can answer your question better than I can. Here is the website: http://www.clover.co.jp/
If you have already purchased a North American style iron, you will probably be able to find an adapter to convert your local power supply to 120 V, either online or at your local electronics store.
Thanks again!
I’ve just uploaded some pictures of the new spray deck to the blog – check the rest out here. 🙂
@lynsg Thanks for your input and for prompting this discussion – at your suggestion, I have deleted the other thread to avoid confusion.
Hi @hiroshi, the floor and seams can be either black or the same colour as the tubes – it is your choice. The product page tells you how to indicate which style you prefer.
I recommend a Large packraft for your stature.
The kit does not include a printed manual, as all of the instructions are on the How-To web pages, including pictures and videos. I answer questions quickly, and whenever someone asks a question that is not already answered on the website, I update the site so everyone else can find the answer as well.
Cheers!
Hi @Hiroshi,
Thanks for your interest in a DIY Packraft. The side tube diameter is 27.5 cm (11″) and the safe load capacity is over 150 kg (300 lbs) – the actual volume is over 300 litres (i.e. over 300 kg buoyancy).
Whitewater packrafting is possible with the single layer floor, but I recommend the double layer floor for added durability if you plan to paddle in whitewater frequently.
Cheers!
Hi @olympicmtnboy, I’ve posted pictures and a write-up of my inflatable floor test, which could easily be made self-bailing 🙂
@brucecampbell Hi Bruce,
The 210D fabric offered here is 8.25 oz (about 4 oz before coating). Doubled up, it would be much stronger than a painted 8 oz fabric because unlike paint, the TPU adds quite a bit of strength.
Seattle Fabrics offers a 430D heat sealable nylon, but it’s actually lighter than my 210D fabric, at 8.2 oz, which just goes to show that denier (D) isn’t everything (see the Fabrics page for an explanation). Stay away from their non-heat sealable PU-coated fabrics, as the coatings are so thin they are not waterproof (I have samples).
I have tried coating fabrics with paint-on “flexible” polyurethane, but it cracks and separates from the fabric when folded, so it’s not suitable if you want a truly packable boat.
I think Extrim Textil in Germany might offer some heavier fabrics, but the cost of getting it to Alaska might be prohibitive.
Eventually I will add heavier fabrics to the shop, but these things take time to develop and I have learned to stop estimating timelines when dealing with manufacturers!
@awg28 Hi Andrew – yes, absolutely! It will not have to be fitted during assembly.
Thanks for the review, @webermarcoweber – you are one of the few people who have experience with both the DIY Packraft fabrics and fabrics from ExtremTextil.
Your new fabric is in the mail 🙂
Hi @michael-s-morse,
I and a few others have experimented with fabric with TPU on both sides, but everyone has concluded that it is unsuitable because it is very difficult to heat seal – you can’t apply heat directly to it with a sealing iron because the iron melts the TPU, creating a sticky mess. You have to sandwich it between two layers of another fabric, which adds a significant amount of time and complexity to your build.
So far I haven’t seen evidence of the TPU-out design being less durable than TPU-in, but time will tell. If anyone wants to build TPU-in packrafts, they could use my original V1 plans (I still have a few sets available – send me a message if interested), or modify the V2 plans as follows:
1. Add ~4 cm length to the “tail” ends of the five tube patterns (each piece is roughly fish-shaped).
2. Cut the floor pattern in half, lengthwise.
3. Tape the five tube patterns to the half-floor pattern in their respective positions (numbered 1-5, between the circled dots on the floor).
4. Follow the instructions/videos for the original plans, currently posted at the bottom of the How-To menu.Cheers!
Hi @Lynsg,
That’s too bad! Was it the eBay 58W iron you mentioned above? I had a similar problem with one of the soldering irons I tested.
