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Ohhh, of course! The last time I looked in a raft it was the Alpacka, which has no exposed TPU inside. I forgot about that. That’s easy!
Is the 190 GMS material any stronger than the 115, or is it just double coated? Because it ripped surprisingly easily when making the UL boat, it seems less tear resistant than 30 denier silnylon. But I don’t know if it’s heaver material and maybe stronger in terms of puncture resistance?
Matt,
Well, you have said that the boat should hold air overnight. I am finding that once I temper up the boat, it loses that nice pressure within about 10 minutes, and overnight sags noticeably.
I found (or maybe created?) some more spots today by painting it with the soap and then taking it in a hot shower. As the air expanded I saw some additional leaks, and I have now sealed the line where the floor meats the raft at the front of the boat all the way around, maybe the front 1/3 and where the front two joints meet. The aquaseal is drying so I will report back after it tries and I try again.
p.s. folks get yourself a respirator, they are $15 dollars and are necessary when dealing with this solvent. I can feel the effects of using it without protection and have ordered a mask.
R
Matt,
I am discouraged! I did this and did identify some pinhole leaks that were not on seams. I patched them with aquaseal, but the boat still isn’t holding pressure. At this point I have painted every square inch with 1/2 dish soap 1/2 water 3 different times and I can’t identify any leaks, but the boat is still losing air.
I also covered the valve with soap/water mix to make sure it wasn’t faulty.
I need help!
So, I have a friend who is going to model a version of the Aire Rocketbomb, but a hexagon instead of a octagon for easier assembly. I will be ordering some material and making a test version this winter. I will share plans.
A tube is a really fun thing to bring on a backpacking trip. In early season I have had amazing times snow tubing, and floating around on an alpine lake is always a treat. It’s lighter and simpler than a raft, and no paddle needed, a better option for casual water play on backpacking trips.
Yes, that was a helpful tip. I found areas on the fabric. It’s a lot of painting the raft with soap lol.
Do you find that the UL raft easily springs more small pinhole leaks, or that once you get it sealed up after assembly that it’s withstands use pretty well?
I am having trouble finding leaks. I made UL raft, and took it for a test paddle, it’s great. I found two small leaks and plugged with aquaseal. But it’s still leaking and I can’t figure out from where. I painted on 1/2 dish soap 1/2 water.
Any ideas?
Can you share pics and a plan for the dual D ring attachment you made for the back band and thigh straps to connect to?
Has this become a standard part of the plan for the v4 boats? Or is there another method for keeping the seat in place?
Hmm, strange assertion since none of the Alpackas are multi chamber as far as I know. Those are definitely pro tools not pool toys.
That looks like the way to do it. I basically want that, but in the lighter weight that would be possible with the 210D fabric. Could put a floor in it and put it together just like a DIY Packraft…I would just need someone to model it out for me in software.
Anyone on here game? I could also see if someone on Fiver could do it
R
I got it at a dollar store. It looks something like this https://www.amazon.com/IMISNO-Sheets-Paper-Colors-thickness/dp/B01I1TED18/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=1mm+foam&qid=1574625656&sr=8-4
For example, here is a breakdown of the Alpacka lineup https://thingstolucat.com/2019/05/17/alpacka-raft-lineup/
And I’m told the Kokopelli rogue is closest to the expedition.
Where would the newest DIY packrafts fit in here? They seem like they would be in expedition/rogue territory with a balance between stability and handling.
I found some very thin foam at a craft store, 1mm or less, and use this under the seams when I iron, as well as affix it to my bowl or form. It makes things WAY easier. The welding is faster, and requires less passes, usually can do in one go. If it’s too thick it causes problems, but if you can find some thin stuff to make the surface have a little give, you will love the result.
Hi.
ok I think I have gotten the technique down. But now I am stalled trying to make the drybag. It’s to fit perfectly inside my pack, to make a roll-top waterproof liner. I want it to have a rectangular bottom with rounded corners, but it looks like theres a limit to how tight the curves can be before everything gets really difficult. I am stuck, and the first attempt looks like a fail.
Will you help with this? Should I create a separate thread?
