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I just got this cool shot from Jeremy and Melissa in Alaska showing their first two DIY Packrafts on their maiden voyage!
Yes, that could work for the V2 plans if you extend the tube pieces slightly (so the ends overlap enough to bond them together).
I’ve been using lightweight drybags like you’re thinking of using, though I haven’t bothered adding tiedowns or clips for them, as I don’t paddle any crazy whitewater (yet…). Cheers!
I have disabled direct messaging between forum members due to a spam issue, so please contact me for Chris’ contact info. Thanks!
Hi Bill,
Yep, the ultralight packraft is… ultralight! 😀
The 40D fabric seals at the same temperature as the heavier fabrics, so if you do find a trim sealing iron that is hot enough to seal it, please let us know – so far, I haven’t had any luck.
Cheers!
Matt
I’m currently using a very light two piece carbon kayak paddle made by Werner, which was a very generous gift; if you’re making or purchasing a paddle, I recommend choosing a four piece design because it’s easier to pack.
When it comes to paddles, spending more money generally gets you a lighter, stiffer paddle. Depending on the type of paddling you want to do, an inexpensive lightweight aluminum and plastic paddle may be ideal (for paddling on smaller lakes, e.g.). If you’ll be battling strong winds or whitewater though, a flimsy paddle is not an option, which means you’ll need a heavier or more expensive paddle.
A while ago I wrote a blog post featuring a DIY carbon fiber paddle made by DIY Packrafter Andreas H. Because carbon fiber tubes and sheets are so expensive, I haven’t really considered offering paddle kits in the shop, but maybe one day I’ll be able to afford it…
This is a common mistake that I’ve made myself, as it only requires a moment of inattention to damage the TPU coating with a hot iron. In most cases it only leaves a small mark on the fabric that doesn’t affect it’s performance, but if the iron is left in contact with the TPU long enough, it can make a hole.
The best way to patch a hole of any size is with a scrap of heat sealable fabric heat sealed over top of it. Color matched scraps are included in the kits for practice and patches.
If you get a tear or puncture in the field, you can use repair tape or Seam Grip or Aquaseal.
For more info on this topic, check out the Punctures, Leaks & Repairs page.
Cheers!
Thanks to Steven S. for sending a link to this inexpensive rheostat. It might be helpful for those using a regular (non-adjustable) soldering iron as their heat-sealing iron because it would allow them to dial in the perfect temperature.
Due to the solid state electronics in mini irons like the Clover, I’m not sure if it would work with them, but it might be worth trying.
Thanks, Steven!
Hi Jim,
My recommendation is to install a couple of these valves in the floor, at the sides near the rear, where they won’t be covered by your seat. When the valves are open, the packraft is self-bailing, and when they’re closed (on flat water) it’s dryer and lighter (because you’re not hauling water in the boat).
You could also model a self-bailing system on one of the major packraft manufacturer’s designs.
Cheers!
This is a great idea!
I’ll tinker with it a bit myself using 40D ripstop instead of Cuben.
Thanks, Jamie!
